The Gateway Beef

Look, the purists will scoff, but Portillo’s converts more out-of-towners into beef believers than any stand in the city. It’s a chain now, it’s a whole experience with the kitschy decor and the chocolate cake shake — but the sandwich is genuinely good.

Order it dipped and hot and you’re getting a properly soaked roll, tender beef, and giardiniera with a real kick. Is it the most soulful beef in town? No. Is it consistent, available everywhere, and dependably satisfying at 9pm on a Tuesday? Absolutely.

Don’t fight it: add the cheese fries. You’re already here. You’re already in.

The verdict

Four peppers. The Honda Civic of Italian beef — not the most romantic choice, but it starts every time and gets you exactly where you’re going.