Worth The Drive

Out on North Avenue in Elmwood Park, there’s a tiny stand with a perpetual line out the door, and the line is correct. Johnnie’s is a pilgrimage. People who grew up in the city argue about a lot of things, but a shocking number of them will quietly admit the best beef is out here.

The play is the combo: Italian beef and a sausage, together, dipped, with hot giardiniera that actually has heat. It is structurally unsound and completely glorious.

Pro move: chase the combo with a cup of lemon ice. Tart, icy, and it cuts right through the grease. It’s not a dessert, it’s a palate defibrillator.

The verdict

Five peppers, no notes. If you only make one suburban beef run in your life, make it this one.